Sarah Mae Keeps Busy

I went through a short phase where I was thinking I would be super original and name all my patterns after flowers, lol. Turns out, pretty much every crocheter in existence is inspired in some way by flowers and nature. So I’m going to be really fancy and say this one is part of my Floral Series. The rest of my patterns will be named after… idk, something hipster and quirky, but not so idiosyncratic that no one knows what it is. 

This is my most popular design, by far. It’s been available on Ravelry for almost a year now and it does the best (as of 11/20). This design should work well with any yarn and appropriately sized hook. I think some bulky yarn and 12-15 of these sew together would make a lovely blanket.

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If you want to download the pattern for free, you can find it here, in my Ravelry store.

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Yarn: Lion Brand Coboo, Pale Pink, 3 Light

Hook size: G6

Yardage: ~15 yards

Abbreviations (US Terms):          

MC – Magic Circle

CH – Chain Stitch

DC – Double Crochet

BPdc – Back Post Double Crochet

SL ST – Slip Stitch

SK – Skip

Notes:

• Because of the business of the pattern a lightweight yarn of 3 or less is recommended. Use appropriately sized hook.
• Pattern is worked in a round
• Ch3 counts as DC throughout
• Petal stitch – dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, (5d in same st)
• Instructions like *3dc, ch3, 3dc next ch3sp, ch2 (3dc in next ch2sp, ch2)3 times* means to repeat the part within the parentheses to the stitch listed, then complete the following instructions until the next asterisk. * to * is the repeat to complete the whole round, and ( -to- ) is the repeat within the asterisks to complete the one side of the square.

Pattern

R1: Make a mc, ch3, 11 dc in the mc, join with a sl st to 3^rd ch of ch3 (12dc)

R2: ch3, dc in the same st 2dc in every following dc to  the last dc, join with a sl st in 3^rd ch of the 3-ch (24dc)

R3: *ch3, sl st into the top of next dc* dc to the last st, join with a sl st at the base of the first 3-ch (do not sc by accident, it must be sl st) (24 3 ch-sp)

R4: sl st into the 3 ch-sp, ch3, dc4 in the first 3 ch-sp, *ch1, sk 2 sp, make a petal in the next 3 ch-sp* 7 times, ch3, sl st in the 3^rd ch of first ch3 (8 petal sets, 8 1 ch-sp)

R5: Work a sl st into the top of next dc, sl st to top of next dc (working yarn should be coming from the 3^rd dc in the petal) *ch5, BPdc (so that the dc is on the right side of the work) around the post of two ch3sp of R3 immediately below, ch5, sl st 3^rd dc of next petal* repeat 7 times, ch5, BPdc, around the post of the two ch3sp of R5 immediately below, sl st into 1^st ch od 1^st ch5 (8 BPdc,16 ch5 sp)

R6: Sl st in the back of 1^st ch of 5 ch-sp, Sl st into the back of 2^nd ch of 5 ch-cp, sc onto 5 ch-sp *ch5, sc to the next 5 ch-sp, ch 7, sc to next 5 ch-sp, ch5, sc to next 5 ch-sp, ch5, sc to next 5 ch-sp* repeat 4 times, finish final repeat with sl st into back of 1^st ch of 1^st 5 ch-sp (12 ch5sp, 4 ch7sp)

R7: Ch3 (counts as the 1^st dc), 2dc in the next 5 ch-sp, ch2 *3dc, ch3, 3dc in the next 7 ch-sp, ch2, 3dc in the next 5 ch-sp, ch3, sk the next 5 ch-sp, 3dc, in following 5 ch-sp, ch2* repeat 3 times, 3dc ch3 3dc ch2 in the next 5 ch-sp, sk the next 5 ch-sp, sl st into the top of ch3 (16 3dc sets)

R8: ch5 (counts as 1dc and 2 ch-sp), 3dc next 2 ch-sp, ch2 *3dc, ch3, 3dc next 3 ch-sp, ch2 (3dc in next 2 ch-sp, ch2)3 times* repeat 3 times, 3dc ch3 3dc in the next 3 ch-sp, ch2, 3dc next 2 ch-sp, ch2, 2 dc next 2 ch-sp, sl st into 3^rd ch of 5ch-sp (20 3dc sets)

R9: Sl st into the 2 ch-sp, ch3 (counts as 1^st dc), 2dc in the next 2 ch-sp, ch2, 3dc in the next ch2 sp, ch2, *3dc ch3 3dc in the next 3 ch-sp, (ch2, 3dc in the next 2 ch-sp,) 4 times, ch 2* 3dc ch3 3dc in the next 3 ch-sp, ch2, 3dc in the next 2 ch-sp, ch2, 3dc in the next 2 ch-sp, FO (24 3dc sets)